It's hard to believe, but it's true.  Colorado is one of the few states left that does not license home inspectors! You read that right, there is zero regulation in the state of Colorado, which means that anyone can call themselves a home inspector. 
 
 I have over 30 years in the building trades; I've been a custom homebuilder, installed electrical commercial and residential systems, worked as a lineman/tower builder. I've worked on all systems in commercial buildings and residential. I was a finish carpenter and on the facilities team at Naropa university, and I still have Legacy clients I work for doing everything from boiler installs, to whole house generator systems. 
 If you're moving to a  farm estate, or a large mountain property with multiple systems and buildings I have experience there too: when I was younger I lived on an organic farm and currently I live on 20 acres in the mountains. I have a tractor for dealing with everything from logging to our mini farm. 
 As a Former volunteer fire fighter, part of our walk-through and discussion, if you're moving to a wildland urban interface zone,  will be about mitigation and preparation's you can do.
 Whether you're moving to the city, the plains, or the mountains I have the background, experience and most importantly the desire to share my knowledge and experience with you so that you walk away from our inspection together fully informed. 
​

 ​Home inspection as a business seems pretty lucrative, and with InterNACHI (International Association of certified home inspectors ) being based here in Boulder, there are a lot of people that take a few online classes and then hang out their shingle and call themselves home inspectors. 
 InterNACHI is a great program and they have a lot of great courses but nothing beats actual experience. I myself am a member of InterNACHI as I believe they have a lot of great educational resources that are valuable. I also believe that you should constantly be learning. Unfortunately as the real estate market in Colorado, and across the nation, booms there are a lot of unscrupulous people taking advantage of homebuyers. Franchises that will offer to build a website and set you up as a home inspector are popping up like crazy. If you're not careful you may have someone inspecting your home that has literally never held a hammer.
 I have seen many reports from some of these extremely inexperienced inspectors miss important deficiencies. Many companies will tell that they have X number of years experience and they offer many many services at what seems to be a great deal with lots of flashy thermal imaging pictures and other super cool technology. The problem is many of these companies have an owner that has lots of experience but that has moved into the office and is now hiring people that have taken a few classes or may be transitioning to what seems to be an easier career. They use technology as a crutch; thermal imaging is a great tool but they oversell it. They push 'additional services' as part of their upsell. A few examples include:

Water testing; many counties and the state will provide water testing for free. A lot of inspection companies charge an extremely high mark up to do a very basic water quality test. They boast that they use "EPA certified equipment" most people interpret that to mean that they are EPA certified. The only people that should be testing your water or a local municipality or a state certified lab or well inspector. 

Another common upsell is 'thermal imaging' or 'infrared scans': are use thermal imaging as an included tool in order to more clearly understand your home. Companies that charge you for thermal imaging and insinuated it can somehow magically detect water leaks or misleading you. All thermal imaging does what is your temperature differentials it does not show moisture. I don't believe there's any reason to charge you for using a tool that helps me do my inspection better. It's sort of like a carpenter coming out and telling you he can install a door but that you'll have to pay extra to rent his hammer.

 Call a few of these companies and ask them how long they spend on site? You'll find that most of them spend about two hours on site going through the Home and giving you a report that's about 30 pages long filled with a lot of fluff.

 I typically spend one and a half to two hours on site before you get there and the average time with my clients is 3 to 4 hours going through the home together. My inspections are very participatory I want you to be a part of the inspection walk-through with me, I don't want to just give you a report and walk away.

Last, but certainly not least, my report is so detailed and I give you so much information that a lot of times people six months down the road will have some questions based on our walk-through together; see how many of these companies will spend 20 to 30 minutes on the phone with you while after your inspection offering you advice or going back over stuff. You might be lucky if they're even still in business or whoever wrote your report still works there. 

My roots are set in this community and ,even if I retire someday well into the future, every client I have ever worked with is welcome to call me and ask for advice. 

​Your home is an investment, I am not the least expensive home inspection you will find it will be the most thorough and the most personable. Experience and quality information is an investment that will reap rewards long after you have closed on your home.
 

Arc-fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) are special types of electrical receptacles or outlets and circuit breakers designed to detect and respond to potentially dangerous electrical arcs in home branch wiring.
How do they work?
 
AFCIs function by monitoring the electrical waveform and promptly opening (interrupting) the circuit they serve if they detect changes in the wave pattern that are characteristic of a dangerous arc. They also must be capable of distinguishing safe, normal arcs, such as those created when a switch is turned on or a plug is pulled from a receptacle, from arcs that can cause fires. An AFCI can detect, recognize, and respond to very small changes in wave pattern.
What is an arc?
 
When an electric current crosses an air gap from an energized component to a grounded component, it produces a glowing plasma discharge known as an arc. For example, a bolt of lightening is a very large, powerful arc that crosses an atmospheric gap from an electrically charged cloud to the ground or another cloud. Just as lightning can cause fires, arcs produced by domestic wiring are capable of producing high levels of heat that can ignite their surroundings and lead to structure fires.
According to statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency for the year 2005, electrical fires damaged approximately 20,900 homes, killed 500 people, and cost $862 million in property damage. Although short-circuits and overloads account for many of these fires, arcs are responsible for the majority and are undetectable by traditional (non-AFCI) circuit breakers. 
Where are arcs likely to form?
 
Arcs can form where wires are improperly installed or when insulation becomes damaged. In older homes, wire insulation tends to crystallize as it ages, becoming brittle and prone to cracking and chipping. Damaged insulation exposes the current-carrying wire to its surroundings, increasing the chances that an arc may occur.
Situations in which arcs may be created:

• electrical cords damaged by vacuum cleaners or trapped beneath furniture or doors.
• damage to wire insulation from nails or screws driven through walls.
• appliance cords damaged by heat, natural aging, kinking, impact or over-extension.
• spillage of liquid.
• loose connections in outlets, switches and light fixtures.

Where are AFCIs required?
 
Locations in which AFCIs are required depend on the building codes adopted by their jurisdiction. 
The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) requires that AFCIs be installed within bedrooms in the following manner:
E3802.12 Arc-Fault Protection of Bedroom Outlets. All branch circuits that supply120-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp outlets installed in bedrooms shall be protected by a combination-type or branch/feeder-type arc-fault circuit interrupter installed to provide protection of the entire branch circuit.
Exception: The location of the arc-fault circuit interrupter shall be permitted to be at other than the origination of the branch circuit, provided that:

1. The arc-fault circuit interrupter is installed within 6 feet of the branch circuit overcurrent device as measured along the branch circuit conductors, and
2. The circuit conductors between the branch circuit overcurrent device and the arc-fault circuit interrupter are installed in a metal raceway or a cable with metallic sheath.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) offers the following guidelines concerning AFCI placement within bedrooms:
Dwelling Units. All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit in family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, sun rooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter, combination-type installed to provide protection of the branch circuit.
Home inspectors should refrain from quoting exact code in their reports. A plaintiff's attorney might suggest that code quotation means that the inspector was performing a code inspection and is therefore responsible for identifying all code violations in the home.  Some jurisdictions do not yet require their implementation in locations where they can be helpful.
 
What types of AFCIs are available?
 
AFCIs are available as circuit breakers for installation in the electrical distribution panel. 

 
Nuisance Tripping
 
An AFCI might activate in situations that are not dangerous and create needless power shortages. This can be particularly annoying when an AFCI stalls power to a freezer or refrigerator, allowing its contents to spoil. There are a few procedures an electrical contractor can perform in order to reduce potential “nuisance tripping," such as:

• Check that the load power wire, panel neutral wire and load neutral wire are properly connected.
• Check wiring to ensure that there are no shared neutral connections.
• Check the junction box and fixture connections to ensure that the neutral conductor does not contact a grounded conductor.

Arc Faults vs. Ground Faults
 
It is important to distinguish AFCI devices from Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) devices. GFCIs detect ground faults, which occur when current leaks from a hot (ungrounded) conductor to a grounded object as a result of a short-circuit. This situation can be hazardous when a person unintentionally becomes the current’s path to the ground. GFCIs function by constantly monitoring the current flow between hot and neutral (grounding) conductors, and activate when they sense a difference of 5 milliamps or more. Thus, GFCIs are intended to prevent personal injury due to electric shock, while AFCIs prevent personal injury and property damage due to structure fires.
 
In summary, AFCIs are designed to detect small arcs of electricity before they have a chance to lead to a structure fire. ​

During the coldest part of the year in Colorado, the last thing you need to deal with as a homeowner is not having heat. Getting your furnace serviced is expensive, and in the mountains, service providers usually charge a trip fee in addition to their hourly rate and a markup on materials. If you are a little bit handy, there is a good chance that you can fix some of the most common issues I have seen: your furnace fan runs, but no heat comes out.

 For the purposes of this article, we will assume you have power, and the furnace is blowing cold air for a few minutes then shuts off or lights then shuts off, and keeps repeating that cycle. You will need a basic understanding of tools like; Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, wrenches, etc.

If you are unsure at any point, please call a professional. If you smell gas turn off the gas supply and call 911.

If your furnace is supplied by propane (you have a large tank in your yard), make sure you are not empty. I have gone to several service calls, and the client did not realize they had run out of propane.
​
Modern furnaces use a component called an 'ignitor' to light the fuel (propane, or natural gas) instead of a pilot flame, which then heats the air. Older pilot style furnaces use a 'thermocouple' or 'Flame sensor' to make sure the pilot light stays  lit, and they shut off the gas to the pilot flame if it goes out. Ignitors and thermocouples are prone to failure at the most inconvienant times, but are very easy to replace and inexpensive. Both styles of furnace also usually have an additional 'flame sensor' that detects the large main flame once the furnace burner has lit, and will shut down the furnace if the flame goes out due to a backdraft or other reason. These three items are the source of 80% of service calls.

If you have a furnace with a pilot light, and no heat is coming out (it may blow cold air for a minute then shut off), it is probably the thermocouple or flame sensor. try to relight the pilot light; if it will not stay lit, but you can get it to initially light, it is usually the thermocouple or flame sensor, which is a sensor that is attached next to the pilot light, and sits partially in the flame when lit. If the pilot light is lit, but the furnace lights then shuts off, you may have a second 'flame sensor' that detects the main burner flame; CLICK HERE . You can tell the difference because a  thermocouple will have a single copper tube and the flame sensor will have braided metal wire or just wire that goes to a connector on the furnace.

• Second, TURN OFF THE GAS. There is a valve on the gas line coming into the furnace that you need to turn off. If you are unsure how to do this, the call a professional.
• ​Once you have confirmed the power is off, then you need to remove the front cover. These usually just slide up and off. They may have screws attaching them, and are often sticky or slightly resistant to removal.

​PILOT LIGHT WON'T STAY LIT:

• Once the cover is removed, if you have a pilot light that won't stay lit, then you need to remove and replace the thermocouple or sensor. To remove the thermocouple, you use a screw driver or wrench to remove it from the bracket next to the pilot flame and a wrench to remove the other end of the copper tube from the gas valve. To remove a flame sensor, you unscrew it or take off the nut and disconnect the wire. so you can go to the hardware store get a new one (McGuckins carries an assortment and they usually are $20.00-$60.00). You will need your furnace Make, Model number, and the old thermocouple or sensor when you go to the store. Some thermocouples are permanently connected to the pilot assembly, and the entire assembly needs to be replaced; This is beyond the scope of this article.

• Once you have purchased a new thermocouple or sensor, installation is the reverse. Follow any directions that came with the new thermocouple or sensor. Relight the pilot and make sure it stays lit, then replace the cover and restore power.
  
• Confirm the furnace works.

 FURNACE RUNS BUT BLOWS COLD AIR THEN SHUTS DOWN (FURNACE DOES NOT USE A PILOT LIGHT):

• If you do not have a pilot light, then you usually have an ignitor. If the furnace runs but will not light (the fan may run and you might hear a click sound several times before shutting down) then follow the initial steps above to disconnect power, turn off the gas and remove the cover.
• Once the cover is off, you need to locate the ignitor; It will be near the main burner. The ignitor operates by glowing white hot causing the burner to ignite. You can see this process if the cover is off and the furnace is running normally, or if the condition is that the furnace main burner lights then shuts off right away (see flame sensor replacement below if that is the case). Here is a typical furnace ignitor location (note the large round burner tubes)

Ignitors are identifiable by there location next to a burner. They have two wires going to a connector on the furnace and they usually have a ceramic base. Here are a few examples, with the one on the right being very common:

• Remove the connector on the flame sensor
• remove the screw holding the sensor
• inspect the ceramic for any cracking or chipping. If it is damaged you need to replace it.
• you can take some sandpaper or a emory board and very lightly sand the metal rod to clean it. This sometimes works. Just be gentle. 
• Reverse the steps above to re-install the cleaned sensor or install a new one. They are usually under $30.00.
• Re-start your furnace
  

If you were successful, then CONGRATULATIONS! You are on your way to saving money, and understanding the systems in your house, as an added bonus, now your warm. 

As always, if it doesn't work, it's probably time to call a qualified service technician.

Deadly Mistake #2: Not hiring a buyer's agent to represent you. 
  
Buying property is a complex and stressful task.  In fact, it is often the biggest, single investment you will make in your lifetime.  At the same time, real estate transactions have become increasingly complicated.  New technology, laws, procedures, and competition from other buyers require buyer agents to perform at an ever-increasing level of competence and professionalism.  In addition, making the wrong decisions can end up costing you thousands of dollars.  It doesn't have to be this way! 
  
Work with a buyer's agent who has a keen understanding of the real estate business and the local market.  A buyer's agent has a fiduciary duty to you.  That means that he or she is loyal only to you and is obligated to look out for your best interests.  A buyer's agent can help you find the best home, the best lender, and the best home inspector in your area.  That inspector should be an InterNACHI-certified home inspector because InterNACHI inspectors are the most qualified and  best-trained inspectors in the world.
 
Trying to buy a home without an agent or a qualified inspector is, well... unthinkable. 
  

Deadly Mistake #3: Getting a cheap inspection. 
  
Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring a certified inspector is almost insignificant by comparison.  As a home buyer, you have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don't stop now!  Don't let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.   
   
InterNACHI front-ends its membership requirements.  InterNACHI turns down more than half the inspectors who want to join because they can't fulfill the membership requirements.  
  
InterNACHI-certified inspectors perform the best inspections, by far.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more.  Do yourself a favor...and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.
 ​

Electrical Panels
 
Electricity enters the home through a control panel and a main switch where one can shut off all the power in an emergency. These panels are usually located in the basement. Control panels use either fuses or circuit breakers. Install the correct fuses for the panel. Never use a higher-numbered fuse or a metallic item, such as a penny. If fuses are used and there is a stoppage in power, look for the broken metal strip in the top of a blown fuse. Replace the fuse with a new one marked with the correct amperage. Reset circuit breakers from "off" to "on." Be sure to investigate why the fuse or circuit blew. Possible causes include frayed wires, overloaded outlets, or defective appliances. Never overload a circuit with high-wattage appliances. Check the wattage on appliance labels. If there is frayed insulation or a broken wire, a dangerous short circuit may result and cause a fire. If power stoppages continue or if a frayed or broken wire is found, contact an electrician. 
 
Outlets and Extension Cords
Make sure all electrical receptacles or outlets are three-hole, grounded outlets. If there is water in the area, there should be a GFCI or ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet. All outdoor outlets should be GFCIs. There should be ample electrical capacity to run equipment without tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses. Minimize extension cord use. Never place them under rugs. Use extension cords sparingly and check them periodically. Use the proper electrical cord for the job, and put safety plugs in unused outlets.
Electrical Appliances
Appliances need to be treated with respect and care. They need room to breathe. Avoid enclosing them in a cabinet without proper openings, and do not store papers around them. Level appliances so they do not tip. Washers and dryers should be checked often. Their movement can put undue stress on electrical connections. If any appliance or device gives off a tingling shock, turn it off, unplug it, and have a qualified person correct the problem. Shocks can be fatal. Never insert metal objects into appliances without unplugging them. Check appliances periodically to spot worn or cracked insulation, loose terminals, corroded wires, defective parts and any other components that might not work correctly. Replace these appliances or have them repaired by a person qualified to do so. 
 
Electrical Heating Equipment
Portable electrical heating equipment may be used in the home as a supplement to the home heating system. Caution must be taken when using these heating supplements. Keep them away from combustibles, and make sure they cannot be tipped over. Keep electrical heating equipment in good working condition. Do not use them in bathrooms because of the risk of contact with water and electrocution. Many people use electric blankets in their homes. They will work well if they are kept in good condition. Look for cracks and breaks in the wiring, plugs and connectors. Look for charred spots on both sides. Many things can cause electric blankets to overheat. They include other bedding placed on top of them, pets sleeping on top of them, and putting things on top of the blanket when it is in use. Folding the blankets can also bend the coils and cause overheating. 

 
Children
Electricity is important to the workings of the home, but can be dangerous, especially to children. Electrical safety needs to be taught to children early on. Safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets when toddlers are in the home. Make sure all outlets in the home have face plates. Teach children not to put things into electrical outlets and not to chew on electrical cords. Keep electrical wiring boxes locked. Do not allow children to come in contact with power lines outside. Never allow them to climb trees near power lines, utility poles or high tension towers. 
 
Electricity and Water
A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. People are good conductors of electricity, particularly when standing in water or on a damp floor. Never use any electrical appliance in the tub or shower. Never touch an electric cord or appliance with wet hands. Do not use electrical appliances in damp areas or while standing on damp floors. In areas where water is present, use outlets with GFCIs. Shocks can be fatal. 
 
Animal Hazards
Mice and other rodents can chew on electrical wires and damage them. If rodents are suspected or known to be in the home, be aware of the damage they may cause, and take measures to get rid of them. 
 
Outside Hazards
There are several electrical hazards outside the home. Be aware of overhead and underground power lines. People have been electrocuted when an object they are moving has come in contact with the overhead power lines. Keep ladders, antennae, kites and poles away from power lines leading to the house and other buildings. Do not plant trees, shrubs or bushes under power lines or near underground power lines. Never build a swimming pool or other structure under the power line leading to your house. Before digging, learn the location of underground power lines. 
Do not climb power poles or transmission towers. Never let anyone shoot or throw stones at insulators. If you have an animal trapped in a tree or on the roof near electric lines, phone your utility company. Do not take a chance of electrocuting yourself. Be aware of weather conditions when installing and working with electrical appliances. Never use electrical power tools or appliances with rain overhead or water underfoot. Use only outdoor lights, fixtures and extension cords. Plug into outlets with a GFCI. Downed power lines are extremely dangerous. If you see a downed power line, call the electric company, and warn others to stay away. If a power line hits your car while you are in it, stay inside unless the car catches fire. If the car catches fire, jump clear without touching metal and the ground at the same time. 
 
MORE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS :

• Routinely check your electrical appliances and wiring. 
• Hire an InterNACHI inspector. InterNACHI inspectors must pass rigorous safety training and are knowledgeable in the ways to reduce the likelihood of electrocution. 
• Frayed wires can cause fires. Replace all worn, old and damaged appliance cords immediately. 
• Use electrical extension cords wisely and don't overload them. 
• Keep electrical appliances away from wet floors and counters; pay special care to electrical appliances in the bathroom and kitchen. 
• Don't allow children to play with or around electrical appliances, such as space heaters, irons and hair dryers. 
• Keep clothes, curtains and other potentially combustible items at least 3 feet from all heaters. 
• If an appliance has a three-prong plug, use it only in a three-slot outlet. Never force it to fit into a two-slot outlet or extension cord. 
• Never overload extension cords or wall sockets. Immediately shut off, then professionally replace, light switches that are hot to the touch, as well as lights that flicker. Use safety closures to childproof electrical outlets. 
• Check your electrical tools regularly for signs of wear. If the cords are frayed or cracked, replace them. Replace any tool if it causes even small electrical shocks, overheats, shorts out or gives off smoke or sparks.

What Is Asbestos?
 
Asbestos is a mineral fiber that can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance. InterNACHI inspectors can supplement their knowledge with the information offered in this guide.  
 
How Can Asbestos Affect Human Health?
 
From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of lung cancer in the forms of mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, and asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue. 
The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increase with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.  
Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.  ​

Where Would Asbestos Be Found, and When Can it Be a Problem?
 
Most products made today do not contain asbestos. Those few products made which still contain asbestos that could be inhaled are required to be labeled as such. However, until the 1970s, many types of building products and insulation materials used in homes contained asbestos. 
 
Common products that might have contained asbestos in the past, and conditions which may release fibers, include:  

• steam pipes, boilers and furnace ducts insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly;
• resilient floor tiles (vinyl asbestos, asphalt and rubber), the backing on vinyl sheet flooring, and adhesives used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers, and so may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal;
• cement sheet, millboard and paper used as insulation around furnaces and wood-burning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers, and so may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation;
• door gaskets in furnaces, wood stoves and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use;
• soundproofing or decorative material sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly or water-damaged material may release fibers, and so will sanding, drilling or scraping the material;
• patching and joint compounds for walls and ceilings, and textured paints. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos fibers;
• asbestos cement roofing, shingles and siding. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, dilled or cut; 
• artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces, and other older household products, such as fireproof gloves, stove-top pads, ironing board covers and certain hairdryers; and
• automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets. 

Where Asbestos Hazards May Be Found in a Home

• Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement. 
• Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation. 
• Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977. 
• Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos. 
• Older products, such as stove-top pads, may have some asbestos compounds. 
• Walls and floors around wood-burning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard or cement sheets. 
• Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives. 
• Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape. 
• Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.
  
  

What Should Be Done About Asbestos in the Home?
If you think asbestos may be in your home, don't panic.  Usually, the best thing to do is to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone. Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers. There is no danger unless the asbestos is disturbed and fibers are released and then inhaled into the lungs. Check material regularly if you suspect it may contain asbestos. Don't touch it, but look for signs of wear or damage, such as tears, abrasions or water damage. Damaged material may release asbestos fibers. This is particularly true if you often disturb it by hitting, rubbing or handling it, or if it is exposed to extreme vibration or air flow. Sometimes, the best way to deal with slightly damaged material is to limit access to the area and not touch or disturb it. Discard damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads and ironing board covers. Check with local health, environmental or other appropriate agencies to find out proper handling and disposal procedures. If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Before you have your house remodeled, find out whether asbestos materials are present. 
 
How to Identify Materials That Contain Asbestos
 
You can't tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos, or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. If you nevertheless choose to take the samples yourself, take care not to release asbestos fibers into the air or onto yourself. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled. 
 
Anyone who samples asbestos-containing materials should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before sampling and, at a minimum, should observe the following procedures:  

• Make sure no one else is in the room when sampling is done.
• Wear disposable gloves or wash hands after sampling. 
• Shut down any heating or cooling systems to minimize the spread of any released fibers. 
• Do not disturb the material any more than is needed to take a small sample. 
• Place a plastic sheet on the floor below the area to be sampled. 
• Wet the material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent before taking the sample. The water/detergent mist will reduce the release of asbestos fibers. 
• Carefully cut a piece from the entire depth of the material using a small knife, corer or other sharp object. Place the small piece into a clean container (a 35-mm film canister, small glass or plastic vial, or high-quality resealable plastic bag). 
• Tightly seal the container after the sample is in it.  
• Carefully dispose of the plastic sheet. Use a damp paper towel to clean up any material on the outside of the container or around the area sampled. Dispose of asbestos materials according to state and local procedures. 
• Label the container with an identification number and clearly state when and where the sample was taken. 
• Patch the sampled area with the smallest possible piece of duct tape to prevent fiber release. 
• Send the sample to an asbestos analysis laboratory accredited by the National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program (NVLAP) at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). Your state or local health department may also be able to help.  

How to Manage an Asbestos Problem
 
If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal. Repair usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material. Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so that fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely. Covering (enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent the release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket. With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make removal of asbestos later (if found to be necessary) more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor. Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos. Minor repairs should also be done by professionals, since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.
 
Repairs 
 
Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended, since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed. If you nevertheless choose to do minor repairs, you should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before doing anything. Contact your state or local health department or regional EPA office for information about asbestos training programs in your area. Your local school district may also have information about asbestos professionals and training programs for school buildings. Even if you have completed a training program, do not try anything more than minor repairs. Before undertaking minor repairs, carefully examine the area around the damage to make sure it is stable. As a general rule, any damaged area which is bigger than the size of your hand is not considered a minor repair. 
 Before undertaking minor repairs, be sure to follow all the precautions described previously for sampling asbestos material. Always wet the asbestos material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent. Commercial products designed to fill holes and seal damaged areas are available. Small areas of material, such as pipe insulation, can be covered by wrapping a special fabric, such as re-wettable glass cloth, around it. These products are available from stores (listed in the telephone directory under "Safety Equipment and Clothing") which specialize in asbestos materials and safety items.  
Removal is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.
 
Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They and What Can They Do? 
 
Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.  
 
Asbestos professionals can conduct inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise on the corrections that are needed, as well as who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair and remove asbestos materials.  
 
Some firms offer combinations of testing, assessment and correction. A professional hired to assess the need for corrective action should not be connected with an asbestos-correction firm. It is better to use two different firms so that there is no conflict of interest. Services vary from one area to another around the country.  
 
The federal government offers training courses for asbestos professionals around the country. Some state and local governments also offer or require training or certification courses. Ask asbestos professionals to document their completion of federal or state-approved training. Each person performing work in your home should provide proof of training and licensing in asbestos work, such as completion of EPA-approved training. State and local health departments or EPA regional offices may have listings of licensed professionals in your area.  
 If you have a problem that requires the services of asbestos professionals, check their credentials carefully. Hire professionals who are trained, experienced, reputable and accredited -- especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws. Before hiring a professional, ask for references from previous clients. Find out if they were satisfied. Ask whether the professional has handled similar situations. Get cost estimates from several professionals, as the charges for these services can vary.  
Though private homes are usually not covered by the asbestos regulations that apply to schools and public buildings, professionals should still use procedures described in federal or state-approved training. Homeowners should be alert to the chance of misleading claims by asbestos consultants and contractors. There have been reports of firms incorrectly claiming that asbestos materials in homes must be replaced. In other cases, firms have encouraged unnecessary removal or performed it improperly. Unnecessary removal is a waste of money. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family. To guard against this, know what services are available and what procedures and precautions are needed to do the job properly.  
In addition to general asbestos contractors, you may select a roofing, flooring or plumbing contractor trained to handle asbestos when it is necessary to remove and replace roofing, flooring, siding or asbestos-cement pipe that is part of a water system. Normally, roofing and flooring contractors are exempt from state and local licensing requirements because they do not perform any other asbestos-correction work. 
Asbestos-containing automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets should be repaired and replaced only by a professional using special protective equipment. Many of these products are now available without asbestos. 
 
If you hire an InterNACHI® inspector who is trained in asbestos inspection: 

• Make sure that the inspection will include a complete visual examination, and the careful collection and lab analysis of samples. If asbestos is present, the inspector should provide a written evaluation describing its location and extent of damage, and give recommendations for correction or prevention.
• Make sure an inspecting firm makes frequent site visits if it is hired to assure that a contractor follows proper procedures and requirements. The inspector may recommend and perform checks after the correction to assure that the area has been properly cleaned.

If you hire a corrective-action contractor:

• Check with your local air pollution control board, the local agency responsible for worker safety, and the Better Business Bureau. Ask if the firm has had any safety violations. Find out if there are legal actions filed against it. 
• Insist that the contractor use the proper equipment to do the job. The workers must wear approved respirators, gloves and other protective clothing. 
• Before work begins, get a written contract specifying the work plan, cleanup, and the applicable federal, state and local regulations which the contractor must follow (such as notification requirements and asbestos disposal procedures). Contact your state and local health departments, EPA regional office, and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration's regional office to find out what the regulations are. Be sure the contractor follows local asbestos removal and disposal laws. At the end of the job, get written assurance from the contractor that all procedures have been followed. 
• Assure that the contractor avoids spreading or tracking asbestos dust into other areas of your home. They should seal off the work area from the rest of the house using plastic sheeting and duct tape, and also turn off the heating and air conditioning system. For some repairs, such as pipe insulation removal, plastic bags may be adequate. They must be sealed with tape and properly disposed of when the job is complete. 
• Make sure the work site is clearly marked as a hazardous area. Do not allow household members or pets into the area until work is completed. 
• Insist that the contractor apply a wetting agent to the asbestos material with a hand sprayer that creates a fine mist before removal. Wet fibers do not float in the air as easily as dry fibers and will be easier to clean up. 
• Make sure the contractor does not break removed material into smaller pieces. This could release asbestos fibers into the air. Pipe insulation was usually installed in pre-formed blocks and should be removed in complete pieces. 
• Upon completion, assure that the contractor cleans the area well with wet mops, wet rags, sponges and/or HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) vacuum cleaners. A regular vacuum cleaner must never be used. Wetting helps reduce the chance of spreading asbestos fibers in the air. All asbestos materials and disposable equipment and clothing used in the job must be placed in sealed, leakproof, and labeled plastic bags. The work site should be visually free of dust and debris. Air monitoring (to make sure there is no increase of asbestos fibers in the air) may be necessary to assure that the contractor's job is done properly. This should be done by someone not connected with the contractor.  

Caution! 

Do not dust, sweep or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These actions will disturb tiny asbestos fibers and may release them into the air. Remove dust by wet-mopping or with a special HEPA vacuum cleaner used by trained asbestos contractors.

​Buying a home?  It's probably the most expensive purchase you'll ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant.  
 
You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don't stop now.  Don't let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors  perform the best inspections by far. 
 
InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor... and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.
The licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to "sense" if a house is OK) and even pets can theoretically be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.
InterNACHI inspectors:

• have to pass InterNACHI's Online Inspector Examination, and re-take and pass it every three years (it's free and open to everyone, and free to re-take); 
• have to complete InterNACHI's online Code of Ethics Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced); 
• have to take InterNACHI's online Standards of Practice Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
• must submit a signed Membership Affidavit;
• substantially adhere to InterNACHI's Standards of Practice; 
• abide by InterNACHI's Code of Ethics;
• have to submit four mock inspection reports to InterNACHI's Report Review Committee (for free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously;
• within the first year of membership, have to successfully pass the following free online, accredited, and self-paced courses and exams:
  • InterNACHI’s "Safe Practices for the Home Inspector" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "25 Standards Every Inspector Should Know" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Residential Plumbing Overview for Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Residential Electrical Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Roof Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect HVAC Systems" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Structural Issues for Home Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Exterior Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation and Interior" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Deck Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect for Moisture Intrusion" course, and
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, and Chimneys" course.
• have to pursue inspection-related training by taking 24 hours of additional accredited Continuing Education each year;
• have to maintain their Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI's rigorous Continuing Education policy;
• have access to InterNACHI's Message Board for exchanging information and tips with colleagues and experts; 
• have access to InterNACHI's "What's New" section so that they can keep up with the latest news and events in the inspection industry;
• have access to InterNACHI's time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits; 
• have access to InterNACHI's Report Review/Mentoring Service;
• have to carry E&O Insurance (if their state requires it); 
• have access to a real estate agent Hold-Harmless Clause;
• and have access to many other benefits, training, marketing tools and information to help themselves, as well as consumers and real estate professionals, provided for free by the world's largest inspector association.

So, the next time you need a home inspector (or need to refer your clients to one), make sure that inspector is a member of InterNACHI. 

​Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. 
Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.  
Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous for homeowners in most parts of the U.S. 
• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient. 
• It increases the comfort level indoors. 
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming. 
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 
As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy. 
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters. 
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs. 
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs. 
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces. 
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room. 

2. Install a tankless water heater.
Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. 
3. Replace incandescent lights.
The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs. 
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy. 
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.
Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess  leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.
The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical receptacles/outlets; 
• mail slots; 
• around pipes and wires; 
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners; 
• attic hatches; 
• fireplace dampers; 
• inadequate weatherstripping around doors; 
• baseboards; 
• window frames; and 
• switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:  

• Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas. 
• Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry. 
• Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner. 

5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets.
The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes: 

• low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up; 
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank; 
• vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.
Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.   
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States. 
• Use efficient ENERGY STAR-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s ENERGY STAR Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers, and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees. 
• Chargers, such as those used for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged. 
• Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.
Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches: 

• skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks; 
• light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and 
• light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, and then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.
About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

• Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option. 
• Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, apply weatherstripping around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when they're closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place. 
• Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window. 
• If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.
An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking: 

• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens. 
• Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens. 
• Pans should be placed on the matching size heating element or flame.  
• Using lids on pots and pans will heat food more quickly than cooking in uncovered pots and pans. 
• Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically. 
• When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.  

10. Change the way you do laundry.

• Do not use the medium setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the medium setting saves less than half of the water and energy used for a full load. 
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not very soiled. Water that is 140° F uses far more energy than 103° F for the warm-water setting, but 140° F isn’t that much more effective for getting clothes clean.
• Clean the lint trap every time before you use the dryer. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry. 
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks. 
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer. 

Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. InterNACHI home inspectors can make this process much easier because they can perform a more comprehensive assessment of energy-savings potential than the average homeowner can.