Arc-fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) are special types of electrical receptacles or outlets and circuit breakers designed to detect and respond to potentially dangerous electrical arcs in home branch wiring.
How do they work?
 
AFCIs function by monitoring the electrical waveform and promptly opening (interrupting) the circuit they serve if they detect changes in the wave pattern that are characteristic of a dangerous arc. They also must be capable of distinguishing safe, normal arcs, such as those created when a switch is turned on or a plug is pulled from a receptacle, from arcs that can cause fires. An AFCI can detect, recognize, and respond to very small changes in wave pattern.
What is an arc?
 
When an electric current crosses an air gap from an energized component to a grounded component, it produces a glowing plasma discharge known as an arc. For example, a bolt of lightening is a very large, powerful arc that crosses an atmospheric gap from an electrically charged cloud to the ground or another cloud. Just as lightning can cause fires, arcs produced by domestic wiring are capable of producing high levels of heat that can ignite their surroundings and lead to structure fires.
According to statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency for the year 2005, electrical fires damaged approximately 20,900 homes, killed 500 people, and cost $862 million in property damage. Although short-circuits and overloads account for many of these fires, arcs are responsible for the majority and are undetectable by traditional (non-AFCI) circuit breakers. 
Where are arcs likely to form?
 
Arcs can form where wires are improperly installed or when insulation becomes damaged. In older homes, wire insulation tends to crystallize as it ages, becoming brittle and prone to cracking and chipping. Damaged insulation exposes the current-carrying wire to its surroundings, increasing the chances that an arc may occur.
Situations in which arcs may be created:

• electrical cords damaged by vacuum cleaners or trapped beneath furniture or doors.
• damage to wire insulation from nails or screws driven through walls.
• appliance cords damaged by heat, natural aging, kinking, impact or over-extension.
• spillage of liquid.
• loose connections in outlets, switches and light fixtures.

Where are AFCIs required?
 
Locations in which AFCIs are required depend on the building codes adopted by their jurisdiction. 
The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) requires that AFCIs be installed within bedrooms in the following manner:
E3802.12 Arc-Fault Protection of Bedroom Outlets. All branch circuits that supply120-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp outlets installed in bedrooms shall be protected by a combination-type or branch/feeder-type arc-fault circuit interrupter installed to provide protection of the entire branch circuit.
Exception: The location of the arc-fault circuit interrupter shall be permitted to be at other than the origination of the branch circuit, provided that:

1. The arc-fault circuit interrupter is installed within 6 feet of the branch circuit overcurrent device as measured along the branch circuit conductors, and
2. The circuit conductors between the branch circuit overcurrent device and the arc-fault circuit interrupter are installed in a metal raceway or a cable with metallic sheath.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) offers the following guidelines concerning AFCI placement within bedrooms:
Dwelling Units. All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit in family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, sun rooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter, combination-type installed to provide protection of the branch circuit.
Home inspectors should refrain from quoting exact code in their reports. A plaintiff's attorney might suggest that code quotation means that the inspector was performing a code inspection and is therefore responsible for identifying all code violations in the home.  Some jurisdictions do not yet require their implementation in locations where they can be helpful.
 
What types of AFCIs are available?
 
AFCIs are available as circuit breakers for installation in the electrical distribution panel. 

 
Nuisance Tripping
 
An AFCI might activate in situations that are not dangerous and create needless power shortages. This can be particularly annoying when an AFCI stalls power to a freezer or refrigerator, allowing its contents to spoil. There are a few procedures an electrical contractor can perform in order to reduce potential “nuisance tripping," such as:

• Check that the load power wire, panel neutral wire and load neutral wire are properly connected.
• Check wiring to ensure that there are no shared neutral connections.
• Check the junction box and fixture connections to ensure that the neutral conductor does not contact a grounded conductor.

Arc Faults vs. Ground Faults
 
It is important to distinguish AFCI devices from Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) devices. GFCIs detect ground faults, which occur when current leaks from a hot (ungrounded) conductor to a grounded object as a result of a short-circuit. This situation can be hazardous when a person unintentionally becomes the current’s path to the ground. GFCIs function by constantly monitoring the current flow between hot and neutral (grounding) conductors, and activate when they sense a difference of 5 milliamps or more. Thus, GFCIs are intended to prevent personal injury due to electric shock, while AFCIs prevent personal injury and property damage due to structure fires.
 
In summary, AFCIs are designed to detect small arcs of electricity before they have a chance to lead to a structure fire. ​

During the coldest part of the year in Colorado, the last thing you need to deal with as a homeowner is not having heat. Getting your furnace serviced is expensive, and in the mountains, service providers usually charge a trip fee in addition to their hourly rate and a markup on materials. If you are a little bit handy, there is a good chance that you can fix some of the most common issues I have seen: your furnace fan runs, but no heat comes out.

 For the purposes of this article, we will assume you have power, and the furnace is blowing cold air for a few minutes then shuts off or lights then shuts off, and keeps repeating that cycle. You will need a basic understanding of tools like; Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, wrenches, etc.

If you are unsure at any point, please call a professional. If you smell gas turn off the gas supply and call 911.

If your furnace is supplied by propane (you have a large tank in your yard), make sure you are not empty. I have gone to several service calls, and the client did not realize they had run out of propane.
​
Modern furnaces use a component called an 'ignitor' to light the fuel (propane, or natural gas) instead of a pilot flame, which then heats the air. Older pilot style furnaces use a 'thermocouple' or 'Flame sensor' to make sure the pilot light stays  lit, and they shut off the gas to the pilot flame if it goes out. Ignitors and thermocouples are prone to failure at the most inconvienant times, but are very easy to replace and inexpensive. Both styles of furnace also usually have an additional 'flame sensor' that detects the large main flame once the furnace burner has lit, and will shut down the furnace if the flame goes out due to a backdraft or other reason. These three items are the source of 80% of service calls.

If you have a furnace with a pilot light, and no heat is coming out (it may blow cold air for a minute then shut off), it is probably the thermocouple or flame sensor. try to relight the pilot light; if it will not stay lit, but you can get it to initially light, it is usually the thermocouple or flame sensor, which is a sensor that is attached next to the pilot light, and sits partially in the flame when lit. If the pilot light is lit, but the furnace lights then shuts off, you may have a second 'flame sensor' that detects the main burner flame; CLICK HERE . You can tell the difference because a  thermocouple will have a single copper tube and the flame sensor will have braided metal wire or just wire that goes to a connector on the furnace.

The following steps can help you see if one of these simple items is the cause of your furnace failure:

​FOR ALL STEPS START HERE:

• The first thing you need to do is turn off the power to the furnace. Furnaces are required by code to have a disconnect within sight of the furnace. NOTE: Turning off the thermostat does not shut down the power to your unit. They usually look like this:

• Second, TURN OFF THE GAS. There is a valve on the gas line coming into the furnace that you need to turn off. If you are unsure how to do this, the call a professional.
• ​Once you have confirmed the power is off, then you need to remove the front cover. These usually just slide up and off. They may have screws attaching them, and are often sticky or slightly resistant to removal.

​PILOT LIGHT WON'T STAY LIT:

• Once the cover is removed, if you have a pilot light that won't stay lit, then you need to remove and replace the thermocouple or sensor. To remove the thermocouple, you use a screw driver or wrench to remove it from the bracket next to the pilot flame and a wrench to remove the other end of the copper tube from the gas valve. To remove a flame sensor, you unscrew it or take off the nut and disconnect the wire. so you can go to the hardware store get a new one (McGuckins carries an assortment and they usually are $20.00-$60.00). You will need your furnace Make, Model number, and the old thermocouple or sensor when you go to the store. Some thermocouples are permanently connected to the pilot assembly, and the entire assembly needs to be replaced; This is beyond the scope of this article.

• Once you have purchased a new thermocouple or sensor, installation is the reverse. Follow any directions that came with the new thermocouple or sensor. Relight the pilot and make sure it stays lit, then replace the cover and restore power.
  
• Confirm the furnace works.

 FURNACE RUNS BUT BLOWS COLD AIR THEN SHUTS DOWN (FURNACE DOES NOT USE A PILOT LIGHT):

• If you do not have a pilot light, then you usually have an ignitor. If the furnace runs but will not light (the fan may run and you might hear a click sound several times before shutting down) then follow the initial steps above to disconnect power, turn off the gas and remove the cover.
• Once the cover is off, you need to locate the ignitor; It will be near the main burner. The ignitor operates by glowing white hot causing the burner to ignite. You can see this process if the cover is off and the furnace is running normally, or if the condition is that the furnace main burner lights then shuts off right away (see flame sensor replacement below if that is the case). Here is a typical furnace ignitor location (note the large round burner tubes)

Ignitors are identifiable by there location next to a burner. They have two wires going to a connector on the furnace and they usually have a ceramic base. Here are a few examples, with the one on the right being very common:

• Often, when you remove an ignitor it may look fine and still not work or you might see a discolored area that indicates it is not usable.  like this one:

• Ignitors are fairly straight forward, and easier to replace usually, than thermocouples. Simply unplug the old ignitor at the connector (it may have two wire nuts instead of a connector) and replace it with a matching one. You will need your furnace make, and model number. You may also be able to use a 'universal' ignitor. McGuckins and other hardware stores usually have these for $20.00-$50.00.
• If the connector on the new ignitor does not match, or the old ignitor had wire nuts twisted on, you can cut the connector off of the new ignitor strip about 1/2" of insulation off of the wires and use the old wire nuts if they are in good shape, or use the ones that come with the universal kit. 
• Reinstall the furnace cover and turn the power on.
• The new ignitor should glow brightly , then the main burner should ignite.

PILOT IS LIT OR IGNITOR GLOWS AND FURNACE MAIN BURNER IGNITES THEN SHUTS DOWN:

• The flame sensor is, as described above, a safety feature to make sure the main burner flame is lit. It is similar to a thermocouple. It will be located just above the main burners and will only have one wire going to a connector. It may be very similar in size to some ignitors but does not glow and get hot. It may also be located in the sheet metal just above the burners. Some examples:

• Remove the connector on the flame sensor
• remove the screw holding the sensor
• inspect the ceramic for any cracking or chipping. If it is damaged you need to replace it.
• you can take some sandpaper or a emory board and very lightly sand the metal rod to clean it. This sometimes works. Just be gentle. 
• Reverse the steps above to re-install the cleaned sensor or install a new one. They are usually under $30.00.
• Re-start your furnace
  

If you were successful, then CONGRATULATIONS! You are on your way to saving money, and understanding the systems in your house, as an added bonus, now your warm. 

As always, if it doesn't work, it's probably time to call a qualified service technician.

Deadly Mistake #1: Thinking you can't afford it. 
  
Many people who thought that buying the home they wanted was simply out of their reach are now enjoying a new lifestyle in their very own homes.  
  
Buying a home is the smartest financial decision you will ever make.  In fact, most homeowners would be broke at retirement if it wasn't for one saving grace -- the equity in their homes.  Furthermore, tax allowances favor home ownership. 
 
Real estate values have always risen steadily.  Of course, there are peaks and valleys, but the long-term trend is a consistent increase.  This means that every month when you make a mortgage payment, the amount that you owe on the home goes down and the value typically increases.  This "owe less, worth more" situation is called equity build-up and is the reason you can't afford not to buy. 
  
Even if you have little money for a down payment or credit problems, chances are that you can still buy that new home.  It just comes down to knowing the right strategies, and working with the right people.  See below. 
  
  

What Is Asbestos?
 
Asbestos is a mineral fiber that can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance. InterNACHI inspectors can supplement their knowledge with the information offered in this guide.  
 
How Can Asbestos Affect Human Health?
 
From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of lung cancer in the forms of mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, and asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue. 
The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increase with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.  
Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.  ​

​Buying a home?  It's probably the most expensive purchase you'll ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant.  
 
You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don't stop now.  Don't let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors  perform the best inspections by far. 
 
InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor... and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.
The licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to "sense" if a house is OK) and even pets can theoretically be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.
InterNACHI inspectors:

• have to pass InterNACHI's Online Inspector Examination, and re-take and pass it every three years (it's free and open to everyone, and free to re-take); 
• have to complete InterNACHI's online Code of Ethics Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced); 
• have to take InterNACHI's online Standards of Practice Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
• must submit a signed Membership Affidavit;
• substantially adhere to InterNACHI's Standards of Practice; 
• abide by InterNACHI's Code of Ethics;
• have to submit four mock inspection reports to InterNACHI's Report Review Committee (for free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously;
• within the first year of membership, have to successfully pass the following free online, accredited, and self-paced courses and exams:
  • InterNACHI’s "Safe Practices for the Home Inspector" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "25 Standards Every Inspector Should Know" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Residential Plumbing Overview for Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Residential Electrical Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Roof Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect HVAC Systems" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Structural Issues for Home Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Exterior Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation and Interior" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Deck Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect for Moisture Intrusion" course, and
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, and Chimneys" course.
• have to pursue inspection-related training by taking 24 hours of additional accredited Continuing Education each year;
• have to maintain their Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI's rigorous Continuing Education policy;
• have access to InterNACHI's Message Board for exchanging information and tips with colleagues and experts; 
• have access to InterNACHI's "What's New" section so that they can keep up with the latest news and events in the inspection industry;
• have access to InterNACHI's time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits; 
• have access to InterNACHI's Report Review/Mentoring Service;
• have to carry E&O Insurance (if their state requires it); 
• have access to a real estate agent Hold-Harmless Clause;
• and have access to many other benefits, training, marketing tools and information to help themselves, as well as consumers and real estate professionals, provided for free by the world's largest inspector association.

So, the next time you need a home inspector (or need to refer your clients to one), make sure that inspector is a member of InterNACHI. 

​Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. 
Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.  
Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous for homeowners in most parts of the U.S. 
• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient. 
• It increases the comfort level indoors. 
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming. 
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 
As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy. 
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters. 
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs. 
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs. 
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces. 
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room. 

2. Install a tankless water heater.
Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. 
3. Replace incandescent lights.
The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs. 
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy. 
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.
Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess  leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.
The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical receptacles/outlets; 
• mail slots; 
• around pipes and wires; 
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners; 
• attic hatches; 
• fireplace dampers; 
• inadequate weatherstripping around doors; 
• baseboards; 
• window frames; and 
• switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:  

• Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas. 
• Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry. 
• Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner. 

5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets.
The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes: 

• low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up; 
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank; 
• vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.
Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.   
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States. 
• Use efficient ENERGY STAR-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s ENERGY STAR Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers, and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees. 
• Chargers, such as those used for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged. 
• Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.
Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches: 

• skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks; 
• light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and 
• light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, and then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.
About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

• Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option. 
• Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, apply weatherstripping around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when they're closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place. 
• Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window. 
• If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.
An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking: 

• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens. 
• Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens. 
• Pans should be placed on the matching size heating element or flame.  
• Using lids on pots and pans will heat food more quickly than cooking in uncovered pots and pans. 
• Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically. 
• When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.  

10. Change the way you do laundry.

• Do not use the medium setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the medium setting saves less than half of the water and energy used for a full load. 
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not very soiled. Water that is 140° F uses far more energy than 103° F for the warm-water setting, but 140° F isn’t that much more effective for getting clothes clean.
• Clean the lint trap every time before you use the dryer. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry. 
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks. 
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer. 

Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. InterNACHI home inspectors can make this process much easier because they can perform a more comprehensive assessment of energy-savings potential than the average homeowner can.